I had previously used a CR10-S4 but after a problem with the auto home and z-axis position, which I oculd not correct, I purchased a newer CS10-S% with part of my tax refund.

Since then, I have tightened the Y axis belt to stop a small slipping noise, levelled the bed, and it works fine.

Being PLA, it is always a little difficult to determine which little bits that looke like space fillers are not actual needed parts.

Even so, I think I did well in the trimming and deflashinhing of the extraneous bits.

I have printed 3 BFG Space Marine Strike Cruisers, one a carrier, one a lance strike cruiser, andother a heavy cannon srike cruiser.





I also printed 2 Bastons Epic scale, and 3 Khorne Doom Blaster Daemon Engines.





I have a multi-part BFG Luna Class Cruiser on the printer now which once deflashed should be posted up with a few more I intend to print during the next week.

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6mm wargaming is just like 25mm wargaming with more units fitting on the same size table. Thus bigger games to get lost in and avoid the hassles of everyday living, and offerings for the dice gods.

All look good. Sadly a skill i don't have.

I just openbed the STL file, adjusted the scale "%" to be the correct size, and saved the file. I made sure certain settings were in place - base was a raft, and support was touching all areas. then the slicer program did the rest.

I copied the file to the SD card, placed it in the 3D printer, and after a while the machine finished the print job.

I removed it with a paint scraper "suplied with the machine", then trimmed off the excess with the flush cutters supplied with the printer and a hobby knife/ scalpel.

You get some parts fall off now and then, but have to deflash those and reglue them onto the mini. As you can see my deflashing/ cleaning up ofthe minis is not always the best.

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6mm wargaming is just like 25mm wargaming with more units fitting on the same size table. Thus bigger games to get lost in and avoid the hassles of everyday living, and offerings for the dice gods.