Excellent!

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Currently doing a plastic scenery kickstarter

These haven't been designed at all yet so it's still up in the air. Somewhere in the region of 18cm x 13cm (slightly smaller than two of the large plates stuck together)

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also, in keeping w/ these baseplates, would the large ones fit w/ the smaller road sections.
i don't suppose you have any forgeworld buildings that you could show on the baseplates? just trying to get an idea of how the fit in.

whoops, i guess you kind of answered my question before i could post it

Scott - I think a spitball cool idea would be "plate locks" that could fill out two base plates at the curvy bits (kinda the shape of underpants )thereby making one big base plates

It's a good idea with one small problem - the road sections would not be the correct length for that side. (and there'd be a pavement running down the middle of the building!)

We could do a set with two "plate-locks"TM and a very small piece of road.
Or, a baseplate with a flat edge so it can either go up against the edge of the table or can be backed onto another baseplate of the same type.

The first option makes the normal baseplates more versatile - the second looks better.

What do people think?

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First version. The whole point of doing modular stuff is that you retain the ability to re-arrange it in a different way.

I'm sure everyone can come up with various way to ease the integration of the shorter piece.

I know I will on my side add detailing to the roads : texture, brass-etched symbols, grates, etc...

I already said it but I feel like saying it again : I love your job !

That's just my opinion of course, but your road/plates sets are probably the best compromise I've seen yet between modularity, nice look and price. Clever design.

I agree that the red option is more versatile. But the aesthetic of the pavement through the middle puts me off.

I may offer both. The big advantage to using CNC as a production tool is that there is no cost to offering a product (except for my time to design it and to paint one piece for photography.)


What sort of terrain pieces would you want for "lava terrain"? Snow I wouldn't consider doing as the direction of snow accumulation has to be consistent across all the pieces - that pretty much demands that you make a full table with everything fixed and then apply snow effects with compressed air. There's a nice article about this in the forge world modelling master-class book.

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Yes, and while it is OT, I will say for anyone wondering, this one article in the FW masterclass book is the only one dedicated to 6mm painting (although there are a lot of applicable techniques explained and illustrated with 28mm models), and it is the same that can be found in their "Tactica Aeronautica" book.

Thus, if you are only interested in modelling article specifically written about 6mm scale stuff, the FW Masterclass book isn't interesting if you already have Tactica Aeronautica at home.

The Masterclass painting guide is essentially a guide on how to use traditional military models painting technique on GW models (high level of course).

i'd have to go w/ the red for the same reasons said above. if you do make larger baseplates they will fit right in.... of course both wouldn't be bad either

The set with a plate-lock would throw off the system and require significant fudging unless each block in that row had a double plate in the same place. You would also get into the single/double sided spacer deal, and it would make a mess in general, IMO.

I want the plate lock to work, but I just don't see it solving more problems than it causes.

I would go for inside and outside corners, side plates with only one sidewalk facing, interior plates, and the end plates you have designed. You would then need a maximum of 2 inside, 2 outside, 3 side (small, and large long and short side), 2 interior, and 3 end (small, and large long and short side) for 12 more peices total. In an ideal world of course.

Come to think of it, the inside corners could be a triangular piece to fill in the gap between two flat edges and a road corner, and a smaller road section the length of the difference between the two current road pieces.

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SG

Ghost's Paint Blog, where everything goes that isn't something else.

I both agree and disagree. The double plates do throw the block sizes off but no more than the large plate does. You need to have a row of the same size through the grid. What is on the cards is a three-piece baseplate that takes three short straights along the long edge. That would fit into the block system nicely and let you have a big centrepiece building.

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