Washing is mandatory, otherwise sometime you might be fine but sometimes the paint will not stick to the model and quickly peel and flake off - and you will be cursing yourself if this happens. That said it's no big deal to do.

I recommend an old softish toothbrush and some cool to slightly warm water (not properly warm or hot or the resin bits will start to bend). FW talk about it on their site too: http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/resinmodels1.htm Can't recall if I used to use anything with it and just water would probably be fine, just leave them soak for a bit and then have a go with the toothbrush - very gently on the more fragile bits.

A bit of soapy water and a soft toothbrush or similar. I've heard about people using vinegar too but for me, the soapy water works fine. I prefer to use a spray undercoat for my models which also reduces the problem with paint peeling off if you've missed a spot during cleaning.

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Sofa General

Nobody expects the Inquisition!!!
http://theepiclounge.wordpress.com/

I have only quite recently heard about 'real primers' and citadel ones maybe not being so great, so I can't really comment. citadel ones work (though may be over-priced) but there could be better out there, I'm not sure and would be interested to know too.

dont use citidel or any other acrylic to prime resin as it might peel even if you have cleaned the models completely. An enamel primer ( i use testors ) is a much safer bet.

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"god help me, i do love it so" - Patton

Automotive primer is the best for sticking to resin.

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http://www.troublemakergames.co.uk/
Epic: Hive Development Thread

Yes, I brush them with White Vinager, then wash them with dish soap with a soft brush. And let them soak a bit. And I too base paint them with spray paint. For spraying I prefer to use enamel spray also ...  But all my other brush on are water based ...

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Legion 4 "Cry Havoc, and let slip the Dogs of War !" ... "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."

I let my resin soak overnight in warm, soapy water and then gently rinse them.

If/when using enamel or automotive primers, do some test sprays to get a feel for the thickness of the primer... you don't want to obscure detail... and removing enamel is a *REAL* pain!

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"EPIC: Total War" Lead Developer

Now living in Boston... any EPIC players want to meet up?

I use Rustoleum auto primer for resin and it works great.  Just make sure the ambient temperature isn't very hot or humid.

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WAAARGH!!
The Lost & the Dipped

Personaly I use the Citadel Primers most of the time. They're good but rather expensive. For terrain I've used cheap auto paints which leaves a bit more "gritty" surface. Prefect for drybrushing (I've used it on a few vehicles too) but not so much for finaly detailed models like infantry.

Always remember to spray in short bursts at a fairly long distance (ie. 30 cm minimum) so you don't drench the models in primer. I'd rather do a fine layer of spray paint and then pick out and nooks and crannies I've missed with a brush rather than try to cover everything using the spray with the risk of drowning details.

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Sofa General

Nobody expects the Inquisition!!!
http://theepiclounge.wordpress.com/

I've had too many bad cans of GW primer and their cost has gotten completely ridiculous; I use the cheap primer available at Wal-Mart (ColorTime?)  Cost $1-$2 a can and works at least as good as GW primers.

I also use warm water and soft brush for resin models, never experienced any flaking.

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