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YOUR Gaming Board(s)

 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 5:55 pm 
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Well I'll be standing by for further updated intell ... :;):

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 6:04 pm 
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I am also intrigued by the 'gen stones'.

What was the ratio of Tactical/Heavy/Assault on the E40K sprues? I bet that this will be the same.

Also, what the hell happened to May? My birthday and no releases at all that month. Its a conspiracy, a conspiracy I tell you!

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 6:05 pm 
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The guys at my GW use bottle caps for blast markers. I think they use it as an excuse to drink lots of beer!

And with the plastic battleforce boxes, unless Jervis releases info on what is in them, I think we will have to wait till them come out!

Cheers

Chris

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2003 6:36 pm 
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Quote (CyberShadow @ 13 2003 Nov.,17:04)
What was the ratio of Tactical/Heavy/Assault on the E40K sprues? I bet that this will be the same.

Fairly close to 2x of the Epic 40K sprues I think (minus the terminators\bikes\scouts + most characters).

The epic 40K SM sprue had:

29 marines
8 missile launchers
4 Sergents (I assume thats what they are)
10 assault marines
+ 6 characters, 5 scouts, 5 terminators + 4 bikes

Conviently enough, all the tactical\assault\devastator marines are on one half of the sprue (aprart from the missle launchers).

Take all the above except the last line, add 1 more marine and 2 more missle launchers and you have the pefect combo for 6 tactical stands, 2 devastator stands and 2 assault stands. Now put 2 of those sprues in a box and you have your 32 stands (4 tactical formations, 1 dev formation + 1 assault formation. And hopefully a couple of characters).


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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 1:23 am 
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That is what I thought. Second edition just had the 'basic' halves of the sprues, and the colourful halves were added later. So, this represents a move back. I would not be surprised if we see the basic plastic sprues released initially, and these then updated later.

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 2:53 am 
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Hi!

The original sprues (which were basically 1st edition sprues repackaged) were of two types. A "basic" sprue in a boxed set were all you'd get were tactical marines, guardians or ork boys, depending on the army.

Each army also had a separate boxed set where more specialized troops were found, like termies, assault troops and such for marines, aspect warriors, warlocks and such for eldar, buggies, nobz and such for orks. Only those three armies had such setup. Other armies like chaos, squats, IG and later tyanids had just one sprue type which combined basic and specialized troops.

That selection was changed with epic 40k when the "half sprue" was introduced and "basic" sprues for all except SM disappeared.

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2003 9:57 am 
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I dont think I'll be using gems as blast markers.  I'll carry on using my old epic40K blast markers and BFG ones when they run out.  At least until I make my own.


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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 4:42 pm 
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Well, been to B&Q this morning and bought an 8"x4" bit of 18mm MDF for ?11. Had it chopped in half so I've got two 4"x4"s, in hindsight I should've had the second one chopped in half again since 8"x4" is entirely impractical for the room but extending it to 6"x4" would be reasonable. Might take the wood back next time we go over there to get a straight cut on the second piece (it's safely residing in the garage for now.)

Anyway, I'm at a loss at what to do now. I've been playing for about eight years and never had a board of my own - so I'm pretty damn excited and eager to get on.. But equally I don't want to cack it up.

The board'll mainly be for my Epic - so I'll want to be texturing it similarly to the bases of my army - black->bestial brown->chestnut ink->drybrush snakebite leather->patches of flock/grass. Come to think of it the extra 2"x4"s would make perfect 'sea and shore' and 'city' additions.

Any tips would be appreciated and photos of your own boards all set up (so the whole thing can be seen) would be lovely too.

Hope I'm not asking too much!
-S.C.

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 6:55 pm 
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I tried to keep things simple and have two sturdy 4x6 foot "Banquet" tables side by side, with GEO-Hex mat, hills etc ...     :;):

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 7:09 pm 
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Pictures of my terrain

City Boards
http://www.ifelix.co.uk/phoepic2-11.html

Grass Terrain
http://www.ifelix.co.uk/phoepic_b07_a.html (flat)
http://www.ifelix.co.uk/phoepic_b08_a.html (with hills)

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 7:50 pm 
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I have a few pics of my terrain pieces in my Briefcase here

Cheers!

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 11:08 pm 
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G'day Sam,

Welcome to the final triumvurate of wargaming (next to playing and painting figures) - terrain construction!

You have chosen to go the easiest and most versatile of methods, which I eventually came back to as well.  Its also the most durable.  I've tried sand tables, modular sculpting and came back to boards and drop cloths in the end too.

You need to decide what your priority is- looks or playability/longevity.  I think your plan to use a base set of boards, with smaller and limited ones on top will be best for stiagrage while still looking good too.  You can also slide in smaller 2 x 4 sets with rivers and the like (beaches as you say) and still have some nice sunk in effects too.

Home made Polystyrene hills can look very effective as well- but you will need to seal them.  I use a product called "Speedclear" (sold in Oz) which is like a kind of satin estapol.  For both the hills and boards, I did
a layer of poster paint (lots of messy, melding different colours)
a layer of speedclear
scattered the flock (again different colours etc)
another layer of speedclear.

The flock will absorb lots of the estapol and it will be a bit pricey for that reason.  However, the result is so tough that I have not been able to accidentally damage the table other than with a file or sandpaper, and coffee/tea/beer runs straight off and does not damage

Hope that helps!
Tas

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2004 1:23 am 
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Hi!

I use two types. One the easy "green felt" fabric available from any shop that sells cloth. Very nice and simple, just drap any table.

The second was the warzone battle boards. I managed to buy the large "campaign" board (8 x 6) that they dont make any more. IT suitably large for the games I favor.

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 Post subject: YOUR Gaming Board(s)
PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2004 10:02 pm 
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I have a sectional board covered with green felt that I'm currently using - a 4x4 and two 2x4 sections. ?I have a system of interlocking 1x2 boards that allows me to set up on a smaller table and not have the boards fall off. ?Basically, the 1x2s are parallel and the next board's 1x2 are just a bit narrower so they slide inside.

Mmmm... dunno if that makes sense.

Anyway, it's light, durable and transportable. ?I used spray adhesive to hold the felt in place and keep it from sliding and bunching, then stapled the edges.

Current plan is to strip off the 1x2s and felt and resurface with a mix of paint, sand, and flock. ?One side will be grassland, the other ash waste (suitable for urban terrain, too).

Grassland: ?layer of floor-grade paint, sprinkle sand on it while wet, second layer of paint, various green spray paint over that, with flock sprinkled on while wet, layer of matte varnish

Ash waste: ?layer of floor-grade paint, sprinkle sand on it while wet, spray with "speckle paint", matte varnish

Of course, all this junk is sitting in my garage at the moment, awaiting a day decent enough to open the doors for ventilation.

BTW, I was thinking about a quick way to highlight the texture. ?Do you guys think that a fairly hard roller would work? ?I was thinking a rigid surface on the roller, roll the paint out thin on a flat surface like a you would do for an ink stamp or fingerprinting or woodblock print, then roll the roller softly across the board to leave dolor on the bits that srick up.

Feasible? ?Opinions?

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