While he may have used the Contrast paints as a base he has done work on that model. That is not just Contrasts paints. You can see where there are added highlights and the Contrast paint does not go that smoothly over flat surfaces.

Maybe he used an airbrush to apply them but there is no way in hell you are going to get that sort of results.

Check this out for some examples of how the paint goes on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjaAJ0y ... ture=share

I would say it looks like it was done only with contrast I see no spots where he added additional highlights

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"There ain't no thing as enuff dakka! Enuff's more than you got, an' less than too much, an' there's no such thing as too much dakka!"

The blue, gold and red don't appear to have any highlights, that's just the reflectiveness of the silver base colour showing through.

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Incorrect on both Pixelgeek. That's a single coat of undiluted brushed on contrast on all areas (primed the model first then sprayed it all Vallejo steel, both by airbrush). He's done no highlighting.

He got asked how he avoided blotchiness others have got and said it took a few models experimenting to perfect the technique. His advice was to "keep it thick and keep it moving. Go panel by panel. Also close and shake the pot every few minutes."

Sorry but it looks nothing like the results that I have seen in any other video or photos. Still calling BS on it

It's consistent with other photos I've seen.


(https://twitter.com/delaneykingrox/stat ... 1615976448)


(https://www.tga.community/forums/topic/ ... ent=333887)

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The photo is clearly being taken in a professional light box too, which might make it look better compared to most people's amateur set up. I'd be surprised if he were lying personally and I've seen others post pictures of models using the same recipe in the comments.

From other pictures that I’ve seen, it does look like just Contrast over a base: the painter is impressively neat, but even so you can see at the edge of the gold shoulderpad trim where some brown Contrast has slipped onto the blue (this seems very common in preview shots). I think the high pigment density and good flow characteristics are what make it possible to create these effects very simply (and perhaps it’s to be expected with high-pigment paints that simply haven’t existed for miniatures in the past?).

Like with any new medium, I expect it’ll take people a little while to figure out the best way to apply the new paints. After all, miniature air-brushing has undergone a similar transformation!

I painted a free test model in the local GW and am pretty pleased with the new paints so far. The undercoat really does make a difference to the colour - I really like the look of Gryph Hound Orange over Wraithbone and I plan to use it as the main colour for my Epic Tau. I'm not so keen on the same orange over the grey spray on the model I painted here. The blue to green fade on the axe head should look good for Mymesra Eldar I reckon, though it might be a second coat for a stronger colour.

Looks very nice, @GlynG, thanks for sharing! Is it hard to be that neat? And did it take much time?

It's not actually all that neat really, I've got paint from one area onto another in places. Maybe 45mins but in a slow painter and it was my first go using them.

In the last two weeks I played around with the new paints. I want to show some samples.
Be warned, I'm no model painter, I paint armies, so I do not try to get up to Golden Demon standard, but to get the best result in the shortest time.

This is the tableau:


All colours contrast paints except silver and copper.

Epic Landraiders. One with yellow slapped on and one with 50% diluted Yellow. On the dark one I tried to get rid of blotching while the colour was still a bit wet, this might have worsened the splotchiness.



This one shows the strength of contrast paints.
Single coat of paint over that's it.


Splotchiness depends on a lot of things and some colours are more forgiving than others.
Especially on a silver base colour the splotchiness is less. The splotchiness on blue over silver (armour) and the brown over silver (it's not gold) is much lower than on the Ogrette's bustier.
When you do some pixel peeping you can make out some spots on the flamers tank, you do not notice them in real life.


Note the blue plasma on the red lady's gun, which is a very nice effect for just applying a single colour. The red plasma looks in real life much brighter than on the photograph.
Also shoulder pads do rarely show show splotchiness, despite being flat surfaces.


I'm sure that the results will only get better with practice.
For somebody like me the colours are fabulous, your mileage might vary.

I've been told you need to really REALLY give them a good shake to keep them consistent.

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Personal & Wargaming Blog: http://www.theancienttrack.blogspot.co.uk

EPIC WIP: Grey Knights, Space Wolves, Eldar

That's my experience as well.

I also did a few tests with Contrast paints. Rough summary - very handy, but not a cure-all.

I started out with four Rhinos that had been base coated with Bilious Green over white, and Vallejo bronze on the metallics. The Bilious Green had a neat coat of Plaguebearer Flesh, which is one of the 'thinner' colours, and the metallics had a mix of brown/red/green Contrast paints. The outside two are the base coated ones, the middle two with Contrast paints on top.



And close-ups, it looks substantially smoother in real life.






The obligatory 'this Poxwalker only took ten seconds'. ;-) Actually a few minutes, but pretty good for the time taken.






I also tried some neat colours and mixed colours on some Beastmen:




Plaguebearer Flesh, as mentioned before, is a bit thin, and didn't look good by itself, but with a wash of Agrax Earthshade over the top gave very acceptable results. Note that these were undercoated over the top of an old paint job and the surface finish wasn't really suitable for Contrast paints.




Lastly some veeeeeery old Citadel gribblies:

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