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Custom round bases experiment
Arne
 Post subject: Custom round bases experiment
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 12:39 pm 
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Thanks!

It's difficult to cast epic sized figs in resin apparently, but if the Forge World guys are using it they seem to do it pretty well.


Didn't get much done. Boring color scheme on the marine, but slightly novel dotted shoulder pads (.::.). Putting texture on flat surfaces can be really fun.


I'm thinking both the LandRaider and Rhino should work on this base. Maybe a Warhound can fit too, one could make a slot in the clay before it dries, although I think one of those (/) diagonal slots will lower the structural integrity of the base too much.



So yeah, nothing much done since last post. I was busy cleaning my studio to make room for my airbrush. Got a compressor some decade ago, but the gun that I got was borked and it ended up collecting dust. Now I bought a new gun, so I'll do some experiments.

I figure I'd do basecoats and perhaps ground dirt (larger figs and vehicles). Anyone here got experience with airbrushing? Can I use water as cleaning thinner? Do I need to take the gun apart every time? I recall putting some water into the acrylics and spraying multiple thin layers and that worked pretty well, then the gun stopped working (it was a cheap plastic thing, now I got a cheap metal thing, maybe I should take the bull by the horns and get a ?40 one).
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Legion 4
 Post subject: Custom round bases experiment
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 7:29 pm 
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Models look great !  I'd never attempt to cast a 6mm fig, only bases and the odd bit !  :)

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Arne
 Post subject: Custom round bases experiment
PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 10:12 pm 
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I managed to cast some greenstuff in greenstuff molds, with pretty good edges too. Might post results later.

Here's something I've been working on. Will try to give Space Orks and Squats a treatment too.
Art and redesigns
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Legion 4
 Post subject: Custom round bases experiment
PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 11:16 pm 
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Looks pretty good !  And pretty scary ! :ghostface:

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scream
 Post subject: Custom round bases experiment
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:42 am 
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(Arne @ May 19 2008,13:39)
QUOTE
I figure I'd do basecoats and perhaps ground dirt (larger figs and vehicles). Anyone here got experience with airbrushing?

1) Can I use water as cleaning thinner?
2) Do I need to take the gun apart every time?


No experience but I was planning buying one few months ago so I searched a lot of informations, so if I can help:

1) you could but it's really not the best way to clean it. Water may be good enough to clean when you change colors but it's not enough to really clean and remove most of paint deposits.

2) if you don't want it stop working after the first day, you should. Airbrushes are really accurate stuff with a lot of tiny parts were paint can find a place and dry. Once the acrylic paint has dried, you'll have a lot of pain to totally remove it. If don't want to completely take it apart, you should clean at least the front part (can't find the translation) and the needle. You can accelerate cleaning time with an ultrasound bath:
http://66.102.9.104/transla....&u=http

Hope it will help you :)




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Arne
 Post subject: Custom round bases experiment
PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 12:46 pm 
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Progress report on greenstuff 'casting' in a greenstuff mold:

Not so much progress. There's a potential for fine details, and it could be a useful method for replicating rare stuff, such as your own masters. I wouldn't use it for mass production though.

Attempt 1: I was too eager and touched both the mold and cast bit too early, and as a result I got a skew copy.

Attempt 2: Again using epic bases as top and bottom, but when I press down the second half after the first is dry, the GS sags over the edges, so I have to keep pushing it in from the sides too.

Attempt 3: Tried a tube with an epic base glued to the bottom. This meant I could only apply pressure from the top. Maybe air got trapped or something because got nasty pockets. I think being able to push in from the sides was a good thing. Also, I let both halves dry at the same time, which worked (they separated fine).

4: First I'll try making a little cup. Hopefully this way I can knead in the top half without having it spill over the edges of the bottom half. I'll also use longer guides which I'll leave in. Sprue bits or something.



Using veg oil for separation. I use a q-tip or an old brush to get it onto everything that needs to separate. After having put the master into the bottom half (both oiled) I use the back of a brush to gently nudge in the greenstuff around the edges of the master, then I make the guides. I think it's best to let it dry for 24hrs at this stage. Then I make the second half (more oil).

I put in slightly more greenstuff than I need. I think it might work to cut excess pockets in one half.
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