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Painting Decals http://www.tacticalwargames.net/taccmd/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7859 |
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Author: | mageboltrat [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 12:24 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
OK. let me have a go at this. It will be hard as explaining concepts over the internet is not easy. 1) A tiny brush does NOT mean you will be able to be able to paint fine detail better. When you get down to something like a 00000000 brush, you are talking about a couple of hairs, have you ever tried poking someone across a room with a rope, its impossible poking them with a stick is much easier. I find it best to work with a GW detail brush, it has enough hairs that you can get a tip that doesn't wobble, this is essential when trying to paint a nice neat line. 2) Load up your paint from the lid of your paint, it makes it much easier to get the correct amount and wiil stop you getting paint on the collar of your brush (this will improve your brush longevity) 3) Getting a great tip is essential. Roll your brush tip on the back of your hand after you load up with paint to recreate a sharp point. 4) When painting a model cradle your hands together with the model in one hand and the paint brush in the other, this will stop your hand wobbling when you paint as both hands will move together. I have been knocked by people when painting and not had to restart due to this technique. 5) It is possible to paint a line thiner than the brush tip can manage. The trick to doing this is to paint a line in the base colour either side of your original line. You can also create a square tip by painting a small line perpendicular to the end of the line. ![]() 6) When you paint a decal try to split it up into simple easy to paint shapes which you can add the detail onto by either cutting back with the base coat or adding extra lines. For example you might start a imperial eagle with just a triangle which you then paint lines in the basecoat to add the feathers. Below is an example on how I paint the infinity network symbol on my Wraithguard. I have put a turquoise background on so you can see the lines I'm painting back in with the basecoat, imagine the background is dark blue. ![]() Hope that all helps, any questions just ask. Good luck on all your future endevors. |
Author: | Bombot [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 2:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Very nice demonstration. Thanks. |
Author: | vanvlak [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 2:13 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Wow, now THAT is cool. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Author: | Dwarf Supreme [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 3:26 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Thanks for the pointers, Ratty. I'm already in the habit of dipping my brush into the lid for paint. I agree that it's much easier to control how paint goes on the brush. |
Author: | Bombot [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 4:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Strangely enough I always have dipped my brush into the lid. Looking at my efforts I know that this alone is not the secret to great painting ![]() |
Author: | Legion 4 [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Very Good ! I always use the lid method too ! But in most cases I use decals as I'm not as skilled as M/B ! Or Others ! ![]() |
Author: | Vermis [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:43 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Excellent! But I don't think I'd try the Admech symbol that way. ![]() |
Author: | mageboltrat [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:52 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
(Vermis @ Nov. 03 2006,17:43) QUOTE Excellent! But I don't think I'd try the Admech symbol that way. ![]() I've done that one a few times.. the trick is to make a circle. then cut back the teeth with the base colour.. the skull is a bit tougher. but I've had to do lots of skulls in my time, can hardly avoid them with a Mortifactor army. Start with the eye sockets as two elongated circles, then add the curve of the forehead.. then finish with the jaw. with the admech sign you have to do both halves diferent colours, which is a pain ![]() |
Author: | tchristney [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Re: the lid. I have found that using a wet pallet works even better. It allows you to keep the lid on the paint pot and keeps paint out of the pot seal, both of which extends the longevity of the paint by slowing the in pot drying. I've also left a blob of paint on my wet pallet overnight and still been able to use it the next day. I use coffee stir sticks to stir my paint (not shaking it) and oral syringes to measure the amount of paint I'm using (which really helps when mixing colours.) I also absolutely refuse to buy any more GW screwtop paints. I really hate opening almost new paints only to find a dried out blob of goo inside ![]() |
Author: | Legion 4 [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:13 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
I bought a bunch of the new G/W mixing pots (the same as their paint comes in), with the pop-up lid. I routinely pour my metal topped/glass bottles Polly's S type paints into these new "pots" ... much, much easier to open ! ![]() ![]() |
Author: | mageboltrat [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:35 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
(Legion 4 @ Nov. 03 2006,20:13) QUOTE I bought a bunch of the new G/W mixing pots (the same as their paint comes in), with the pop-up lid. I routinely pour my metal topped/glass bottles Polly's S type paints into these new "pots" ... much, much easier to open ! ![]() ![]() I must admit the new pots are so much better than the old ones... Do you remember when you got ink all over you every time you opened them |
Author: | Dwarf Supreme [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
The GW's screw on lids were the worst. The paint dried up too fast. Oddly enough though, I have some jars of Testors paint that has metal screw on lids and the paint is still good after 30 years. ![]() |
Author: | Legion 4 [ Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Painting Decals |
Yep ! I'm always careful when using inks ! And some of the old G/W screw top I still have, I have to use two different kitchen tools to open the :"*(&^%>+!(?@#$!!!! ![]() |
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