GW always removed the modeling/painting chapter when putting Specialist Games rules PDFs on their website. There are some Youtube videos about painting historical or fantasy 6mm figures, though.

Or you can just jump into Vaaish's thread and replicate his work =p.

I find that highlighting can be harder in 6mm, so starting lighter and using a bold wash is often a good idea. I do go back and highlight, but it takes me a long time and that's why I never finish anything. Worse, I sometimes spend all that time and the highlighting ends up being too subtle.

Not shading or highlighting secondary colors is more acceptable at this scale. Don't forget how small these figures are from typical viewing distances - you'll hold them up to your face to paint them and they might look big in photos, but an army-wide view is more important. I'm trying to tell myself that in order to paint faster...

Liked this tech after i got my airbrush a decade ago. Works fine on 6mm aswell.


Build something like this to make the tubes the same size.

OK, a lot of bits and pieces about "dipping" have been mentioned kinda piece-meal, and it might cause some confusion, so here is a more lengthy explanation.

"Floor Wax" such as Future or Pledge brands

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-F ... +floor+wax

is a clear acrylic meant to give tile floors a high gloss. It can be used on miniatures like a brush on gloss coat to highlight shiny bits of a figure that has been matte sealed, or to provide a protective coating like a regular clear coat. It does nothing for shading.

Wood Stains, such as Minwax brand

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-70012-Fin ... _i=desktop

is an oil based stain that can be applied to a miniature to provide some quick shading. I have seen it used both before a figure has been painted and after. As mentioned, it should be thinned first (with turpentine?) before being used on miniatures, but it doesn't have to be. the stain will flow into recesses and provide a natural dark area that shades a figure automatically.

It takes a loooong time to dry completely (days). It will also darken a miniature a lot if applied afterward, so paint in bright colors.

Army Painter, as mentioned, creates a line of similar products

http://shop.thearmypainter.com/products ... tGroupId=1

that are meant for miniatures. Their stuff drys a lot faster and, IMO, looks better than the wood stain, but is a lot more expensive.

apply either of these things can be done in different ways. You can "dip" the figures, which is exactly what it sounds like. Dunk the figure in the can and then shake it off real good. I have heard some people using this method that recommend attaching a rod beneath the figure and then using a power drill to shake the excess off, so you want to REALLY shake of the excess. This is INCREDIBLY messy, do it outside and far from anything important.

You can also use a big (~1" diameter) brush to just slather the stuff on. That isn't as messy, but you still want to do it in the garage or outside. You will need to clean the brush with turpentine or something afterward though.

Finally, it can also be applied with a regular miniature painting brush (that will not be usable for anything else, ever). this provides the most control and can probably be done inside, but takes longer and almost removed the whole point of using this stuff. Again, brush will need to be cleaned with something that breaks down oil based stains.

And again, emphasizing that it takes a long time for this stuff to dry. It will also give the figure a high gloss, so you might want to hit it with a matte coat later. Finally, if applied last, it creates a really hard shell that protects the figure quite well, sort of a super 'ard coat.

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The Best washes to use is Games Workshop ... period, IMO ... I normally don't make such positive claims about GW, but in this case. I highly recommend them ...

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Secret weapon make incredible washes. Highly recommended.

Army painter shades are also pretty good (these are washes, not to be confused with their dips in cans as described above).

GW are good, but come in pots designed to dry out (like all their paints.) Depends how fast you use it.

Floor wax can definitely be used to shade. Just add the appropriate colored ink to it and away you go. The consistency of the liquid wax will avoid tide marks and the dilution of the ink will stop it staining over the base coat as much

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

Indeed, have a look for 'magic wash' on youtube

I haven't found any pledge with future shine in the UK to try it out myself

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Just to throw more information out there, 6mm takes to oils, especially washes and filters, amazingly. I almost exclusively use oils at this point due to how much better they work for shading plus if you make a mistake or don't like it you can wash it off with some white spirit/orderless thinner and start over. Try that will acrylics Oh and blending with oils? So easy in comparison to other mediums (you can literally have days to keep working the paint if you wrap it properly).

Above there was a question about cleaning brushes used with laquer: yes, thin and wash with a turpinoid. Any brush you use is toast so get some small cheap ones for that type of work (or blown out ruined ones from your normal painting as well)

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Agree with Jimmy. Especially pinwashing with oilwashes is incredibly effective. Google it to find tutorials. Make sure you get good oil paints with very fine pigments, others cheaper stuff might turn out slightly grainy.

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Hello all!
I was just wondering what make/ size of brushes everybody uses? I tried the new games workshop detail one and it split in under a month, I thought he army painter ones were ok-ish. What about winsor and newton are the dogs danglers like everybody says they are? Worth the money?
Cheers

I use Rosemary & Co. Series 401, size 3/0
http://www.rosemaryandco.com/acrylic-br ... le-mixture

A lovely brush. They last longer than the GW brushes I used to use, yet they are so cheap I can treat them as disposable. I never could make brushes last; I get through several per army...

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My understanding is that the Army Painter Shades are pretty close to their respective Dips.
I have used their dips on 28mm figures, but not tried them on 6mm figures - I worry that you would be too much detail using their dips on 6mm figures as they are pretty thick in consistency.

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The old GW brushes (dark blue handles) were better than the new ones.

I've had two Windsor & Newton brushes. They stay pointy longer, but one split almost immediately so I'm wary of going back to them.

I'll be trying elsmore's Rosemary brushes - but why 401 and not 402?

I must admit i do like the GW brushes myself, but as said by others its like once you first use them, especially the fine ones, they do not last long. And they are not cheap,

My advice is go to a local model shop, I used to have one really local to me pretty much on the doorstep, I used to buy all my minature basing ballast as it was a model train shop. But he stocked some decent brushes and they lasted a lot longer than the gw ones and worked just as well painting wise for detailing etc.

My advice is just buy a few from different places and see what works for you, Some of the online deals with brushes on ebay are excellent also , the brushes may not last that long but when when you are getting 5 brushes for the cost of 1 gw brush you do not mind them been dispossable

Nope; they're the same stuff that GW sold in their old line, down to the same utterly vile taste. Devlan mud is the strong tone, badab black is dark tone.

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