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Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer

 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 5:35 pm 
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Back from holiday.

When I started on the tractor, I wanted to build something around the tracks of the Howitzers.
For one it binds the models, makes the part of the same army and on the other hand it saves time.

But what I got just looked like a Bren carrier. But I don't know anybody called Bren and I'm surly wouldn't carry him around even if I did.

So I went back to the Walker background. If everything else is based on a Walker, the tractor would be as well.
The current consense seems to be that any legged heavy howler would have to be spider like.
Of course the Knights never would go with that, because the spidery things would scare the fair maidens.

So basically I took the Rough Rider model and made it larger to fit the gun crew. The overall shape is reminiscent of a horse or dog, so no "damsel scare alarm".

I did 4 poses, two of them with and without gun crew. One pose is "chassis on the ground" to allow the crew to mount and unmount.
The second is something of a crouch, the third is the tractor straining with a heavy load and the forth a move out of pose three.

Image

In the background the "carrier" can be seen. And it is featured prominently in the front view shot.

Image


Last edited by brumbaer on Mon Aug 29, 2016 9:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 6:18 pm 
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Hi!

Fantastic!

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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 11:07 pm 
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very well done


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 12:26 am 
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Fantastic as always.

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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 2:44 pm 
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Lovely Sculpts ;)


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 1:07 pm 
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I thought about doing a knightly Thunderbolt. But the more I thought about it the more desperate I got. The ForgeWorld Thunderbolt is such a brilliant model that whatever I came up with looked very amateurish or at least unsophisticated.

So I stopped and started doodling just for fun. But not with pen on paper, but bashing different parts together until it looked somewhat like a flyer.
That's not a finished model and I will most likely not pursue that line, but since I've done I show it as a study in kitbashing 21 century style :)

Fresh from the forge
Image

Greetings fron the pilot
Image

Quite a dirty plane - in fact from this perspective it looks a bit like a boar or a warthog, probably should name it Pumba ?
Image

When I showed the model to a friend he asked, why I always use only 3 or 4 colors.
That got me intrigued.
Image
I use a bit more than 4 colors, but if you don't see it, I could probably save some time on omitting some detail, but than again, I would know that there is something that I should have painted, but haven't - sigh.


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 1:32 pm 
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brumbaer wrote:
I would know that there is something that I should have painted, but haven't - sigh.

Very relatable feeling!

great work as always

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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 7:41 pm 
You so crazy.

Let me try the tradition: What kind of printer is it? What sort of software do you use?


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 8:32 pm 
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As you took the chance to ask this question, you are entitled to a draw from the "chance deck" -
and you just drew:

"Go directly to Jail – do not pass Go, do not collect $200"

Uuupps, bad luck

:)


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 4:03 pm 
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Image
;)

I rather like your flying knight!

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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 4:45 pm 
I found SLA printers required some mental rewiring after becoming accustomed to deposition printers w/ support matieral.

I was looking at a pic of a freshly printed model and noted that you lay them flat with tons o' supports, rather than do the typical tilt-on-two-axes approach. This probably helps get all of the rivet details on the sides, but does it cause any unwanted side effects?


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 4:48 pm 
And a follow up question - do you hollow out your tanks to save on material, or make them solid?


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 6:13 pm 
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Todderman wrote:
I found SLA printers required some mental rewiring after becoming accustomed to deposition printers w/ support matieral.

Never thought about it. But now that you mention it, no there's no rethinking. There are thinks I wouldn't try to achieve with FDM printers or for that matter my SLA printer.
There are details that differ, but I wouldn't call it a different thought process.

Todderman wrote:
I was looking at a pic of a freshly printed model and noted that you lay them flat with tons o' supports, rather than do the typical tilt-on-two-axes approach. This probably helps get all of the rivet details on the sides, but does it cause any unwanted side effects?


You can fill a cold winter's evening discussing that question.
Basically I get the best quality/highest resolution in the plane that is parallel to the build platform and facing away from it.
The orthogonal planes are next.
The plane opposite the first one ist usually of the worst quality.
Main reason is that light doesn't stop at the layer, but will bleed into the layer above.
Also the supports keeping the machine on the build platform connect from this direction.
The quality of all other planes can be interpolated from that.

Nearly all of my models are abstractly box shaped and probably even more important, have a distinct top and bottom. Even soldiers can be pressed in a box shape, and top and bottom can be identified. Top and bottom relative to the final pose.

And usually the bottom is a "blind side". I just do not care what's on the underside of an tank.
The blind side will face towards the worst quality plane i.e. facing the build platform.
Luckily the side we are most interested in when playing or looking on an army - in contrast to inspecting a single model in front of your nose - is the top. So all is well.

If there is no blind side or I have for whatever reason to increase the quality of a facing, I will rotate the model accordingly. About 45 degree relative to the build table plane, will give the best average quality on all faces. In
this case the part of the box closest to the build platform will be a line (an edge) instead of a plane (side).

Sometimes you will have to rotate it in a second direction, so the closest part will not be longer a line, but a point (corner of the box)

If you have small open circular structures that you can not support you might want to lay them parallel to the build platform or at least have them not orthogonal to the build platform to ensure that they are really round.

You may also counter some of the light bleed or deformation by increasing the pigment in the resin. It will increase the exposure time needed and might get a bit more brittle, you just have to decide what's more important.

Rotating the model relative to the build platform will increase print times, that's also something to consider, so I might do the sample "flat" and the real model at an angle.

Sometimes, you can save a large number of supports by printing the model at an angle - or not.

So basically it depends on the model - but more often than not I print in the "natural" orientation - because it's "natural" for us to ignore/not see the underside of things.

I also print on the build table, if I can - i.e. infantry on their 5mm disk - saving the supports an getting a guaranteed plane bottom.

I also save supports, by designing features with an slope. This will only work if the model is oriented accordingly.

Flyers are one of the types of models, where the underside might be of interest. Mainly because it might be mounted on a base at an angle. Or photographed from "below". So I usually print them at an angle.
In this special I printed the flyer as I did, because it was the fastest way to print and I didn't care about max. usability, I just wanted to see what it looks like.

And it looks like the pilot didn't realise that he crashed into a knight when reverse parking, and flew off with the wreckage attached.

Have you made similar observations and do you have others to add ?

Todderman wrote:
And a follow up question - do you hollow out your tanks to save on material, or make them solid?


Again, depends.

On small models I usually do not care.

On large models like the KOW Ogres (28mm miniatures, so they are really 55mm, because they are larger than men), the models are hollow.
Image
There are three pages on my website just about the Ogres.
The first one for those interested: http://brumbaer.de/index.php/3d-printing/44-ogres-kow

Depending on the printer you will have to be careful when hollowing out small models, because the walls may sag or shift as soon as the inside gets hollow or filled again.

How do you handle it ?


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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 10:11 pm 
My problem with SLA printers is what I call the "radiator box paradox".

If oriented slanted, you need a lot of support critters, which means corrupted detail for sufficiently small parts.

If laid flat, the entire bottom layer is hardened as a single piece, risking bowing or a failed print.


For a tanklike object, the problem is partially solved by making one side plain with a single axis of tilt. This still causes some loss of detail on one side of the radiator.

A more flexible solution can be reached by making the model in multiple pieces to increase the number of dead sides (which can be sanded), at the risk of visible join lines.


Attachments:
Radiator box.jpg
Radiator box.jpg [ 129.61 KiB | Viewed 3117 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Stalker, Christmas and a 3D Printer
PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 10:50 pm 
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What size is the radiator and it's fins ?


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