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de-basing

 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 2:55 pm 
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nealhunt wrote:
Cut them with an old-fashioned, lever-action paper cutter - speed and good straight lines. You can crank out hundreds of blanks in no time like this.

Scoring and snapping is just as fast, and you only need a knife and a steel rule - the drilling part is only if you want the inset holes like the official bases have! ;)


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:55 am 
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i base all of my epic stuff on 2p's,its cheap aswel!!!!!


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:15 am 
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I use fender washer as my bases. They are cheap, readily available and come in different (precise) sizes. Basing is very straightforward:

1. Put some tape over the hole and spread spackle over the whole base. Insert models, ruins, stones and other ground elements into the spackle. The model's base goes into the spackle and thus creates it's own whole :)

2. Glue and water mixture over everything except the models and then add fine sand. I then use a big (model sized) brush and "wash" the model with water. This washes of any stray sand that might have gotten onto the model. The excess water just mixes with the glue and will eventually dry.

3. Spray black, ink black to get the areas that the spray didn't get and then drybrush in brown and beige.

4. Paint the models. My infantry bases are 25mm diameter so there is usually enough room to paint models on the base.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 3:29 pm 
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Nuglug wrote:
I have started to use small Flames of War bases for my infantry (check my signature). I see a lot of people starting to use round bases.

How big are the FoW bases? It is hard to tell from the picture.


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:20 pm 
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Small Base: 1.25" x 1" (32mm x 25mm)
Medium Base: 2" x 1.25" (50mm x 32mm)
Large Base: 2.5" x 2" (64mm x 50mm)


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:14 pm 
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So I am going the route of 2.0mm Styrene for all of my bases (infantry with be 1.0mm plus 1.0mm with holes). but I am still a bit iffy on the base sizes as I don't want to get CC whored because my bases allow too much base to base contact. So far the decisions are easy for basing but I am not sure for bigger stuff

Infantry - 4 per 12mm x 40 mm base
Cavalry - 3 per 20mm x 40 mm base
Specials and Walkers - 1 per 20mm x 20mm
Artillery - 30mm x 30mm

Here is where I get uncertain
Small vehicles - 30mm x 30mm or 30mm x 40mm?
Large Vehicles and small titans - 40mm x 40mm?
Really big stuff - 60mm Round?

Fliers - GW flying bases with magnets (maybe even 2 heights?)

My goal is to base everything to help with scale looks, to avoid cheesy CC moves by enemies AND stay legal for any 2nd Ed., E:40k, E:A, or Netepic battles I may one day find (house rules for me are Netepic)

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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:38 pm 
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Well, SM2 'legal' bases sizes are quite limited (and all infantry are on 20 x 20mm bases).

Otherwise, this is what I've recently done for my Squats:

40 x 15mm infantry strips with holes for 3-man and 4-man squads.
20 x 30mm small vehicle bases
30 x 45mm medium/large vehicle bases
40 x 60mm very large/superheavy vehicles
20mm round single-model non-vehicle bases (Robots for example, also light artillery)
30mm round single-model non-vehicle bases (fliers for example, also medium artillery)

The reasoning was that each of bases' sides is either a multiple of 10mm or 15mm, which lets me line them up neatly and tightly if I wish. For example, two bases of troops have the same combined depth as one light vehicle base (like their Rhino transport for example). I also made the infantry bases 15mm deep as it gives a little more room than the usual 12.5mm.

If you have Titan-type models, then 60mm round bases are the norm, and neatly fit within the sizes I've listed.

The only size I've not decided on yet is cavalry/bikes. I'm debating on 20 x 45mm (so a deep base) with three models staggered along it or a 30 x 40mm with three models abreast. I'm also considering putting pairs on a 30mm round base. The advantages of each are:

20 x 45mm = Bikes in columns (looks cool), narrow frontage (so get lots into CC) and reasonable base-size (less susceptible to templates)

40 x 30mm = Bikes in skirmish lines (looks cool), wide frontage (so easy to string them out into wide formations) and decently large base-size (less susceptible to templates)

30mm round = Bikes in pairs (cheaper as fewer models), narrow frontage (so get lots into CC), and small base size to avoid getting swamped in and counter-assaults.


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:55 pm 
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I like the way you are going, I am going to stick with square for everything though since I can't cut bulk circles !

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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:59 pm 
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I bought stainless steel washers that were the right diameters from Ebay - much easier and it gives the models a little weight too! ;)


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 2:48 am 
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I buy my bases custom-made from www.shogunminiatures.com because he does magnetic bases in any shape for VERY reasonable prices.


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 2:56 am 
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I've had good experiences with Shogunminiatures as well.


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 11:41 pm 
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I will also point out that I use Litko as well, but Shogun's individual prices were the best I found, and Ive never had any problems with him or the product!


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 12:17 am 
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The Shogun miniatures bases seem very good -- and I like the steel movement trays a lot.
My concern about them is that they don't take white glue very well.


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:11 am 
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I havent experienced that side effect yet, Carrington. Do your slough off, or just not stick in the first place?


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 Post subject: Re: de-basing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 5:34 am 
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Hearsay. From the manufacturer. The fellow did send me some sample bases, so suppose I should try it out. It would be nice if White glue worked after its fashion, i.e. good enough until soaked in water.


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