I'm thinking about getting an airbrush and compressor. Does anybody here have an airbrush? What model? Any advice?

I have an aztek but haven't gotten it to perform all that well yet. I tried basecoating with it using silver paint and even with it thinned way down it still clogged. I'll have to try it again with a non-metallic color.

For a compressor, if you get one with a tank and regulator you can use it for pressure casting as well as for an airbrush. A moisture tap might be useful if you weren't living in a very dry state.

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Dave

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Squats 2019-10-17

I started with a cheap badger but about 12 years ago I moved to a Paasche VL series http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-bin/ ... l.cgi?r=45. and I have never looked back, just buy a good quality one at the start and be done with it!

As far as compressors, I use a backup compressor form a CO2 based Soda pump system. It isn't that loud and has a reg, switch and tank built onto the unit. Any compressor will do you well, but make sure you have a good reg and a good trap or you will be unhappy no matter how expensive the compressor.

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MadMagician
Epic Tyranids

I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with an Iwata Smartjet compressor (got it as an e-bay bargin from an old spray-tan salon!)

Make sure you get a double-action brush. Also gravity feed (Top reservoir) is the way to go - avoid suction feeds (bottom cup). As for the compressor, make sure it comes with moisture trap and pressure regulator - these are a must. Compressor storage tank is a good optional extra to avoid pulsing - some compressors have them, others don't. All in all, you'd need:

- Airbrush
- Compressor
- Hose
- Paint thinner (Vallejo make a cheap bottle of the stuff which is good enough)
- Airbrush cleaner - a definite must (Vallejo, again, make a good cleaner)
- I'd also recommend a cleaning station that acts as a reservoir which allows you to empty any left over paint from the brush as well as a place to blast through the cleaning solution between paint colours

EDIT - one extra thing that you will need - low tack masking tape. This will allow you to tape off areas you don't want paint to be airbrushed onto, but won't bring off the paint it's stuck to. Tamiya make several sized rolls which are cheap. The tape is a must to allow you to do stencils, protect areas, do effects, etc. I use it all the time to assist with my hand brush painting - useful stuff!

I'd recommend a few test pieces to get the hang of the brush before unleashing it on your expensive tanks! I've only just started experimenting and learning that a heavy finger and airbrushing doesn't mix! Also, trying the get the paint thinned to the right amount is tricky. I haven't clogged the brush but have succeeded in over-thinning paint!

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Cool, thanks!

Iwata airbrushes are probably the best in the world. On my side, I bought a Harder Steenbeck Infinity 2 in 1 and it's a robust and nice airbrush.

If you're discovering airbrush, do not take one with a single thin needle (0.15-0.20mm), prefer a bigger needle 0.3-0.4mm. You'll appreciate not having to clean it every minute if you do not manage to find the good paint thinning.

For a beginner, I'd say the must-have paint is Tamiya one and the Tamiya thinner (that can eventually be replaced by 91% isopropylic alchool). This paint rarely deposits on the end of the needle and you can airbrush during a very long time before having to clean it. You can thin Tamiya paint at a 3:1 ratio (3 paint parts for 1 thinner part) and it works very well.

To clan the airbrush you can spray a mix of 50% deminarelized water + 50% window cleaner liquid (take one that contains alcohol). Cheap and good result.

I use a Grex XG with a Grex 1/8 hp compressor & love it. It's actually the same model airbrush that MIG Productions sells. The XN is better suited for Epic scale work.

Definitely go with a gravity feed dual action regardless of brand.

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The Lost & the Dipped