Many thanks for all your comments, much appreciated



I delibaratly choose not to use this piece on the mini. As frustrum kit come with enough piece to do different variants, I prefered doing a more original mini and using parts players usually do not choose. I even hesitated using the small gem rather than big one but mini is more reconizable with the big one
This is how look this side:


And another shot of the angry robot bug shooting weapon:


Well, those pics are in "Scream's Necrons" topic, I should have placed them in one of the Otterman's threads as those last minis will be in his hands soonly

I love how bright the greens are and how well shaded the blacks and golds are! My shaded blacks always end up just looking dirty.

Thanks for your comment

Usually, a too dry drybrush finish on a dirty aspect but drybrushing with a diluted paint and not to dry may give a good finish But there is no drybrush on these minis (except on the sand of the bases). I prefer lining even it's wayyyyyy longer.

I think the smaller crystal works pretty good in there. Any larger and I thik the model might have ended up with too much green on the top since you decided not to use the bit to cover it.

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-Vaaish

Scream what do you by lining is this as it sounds i.e just painting on the lines rather than feathering or a whole new painting teqnique that i have never heard of

Regards epic

With you question, I have to admit that I use the term "lining" is used "as-is" on the french painter community and I never searched if there's a "real" english wording for this.

"What-I-called-Lining" can be done in 2 differents ways:
- in recesses where you'll place a dark color to delimitate a detail to constrast and make reliefs more visible.
- on edges where you'll paint the edge with the edge of the brush, following the edge of a detail to highlight it . The opposite of a drybrush where brush is used perpenpiculary to the edge.

Hope this clarify

I believe the term I've heard used most often to describe this technique is "extreme edge highlighting".

Fantastic work, scream.

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SG

Ghost's Paint Blog, where everything goes that isn't something else.

Package received and most welcome in its new home.

That's a great news

4 years & 2 daughters later (gasp), few more necron stuff (in WIP) for my dear & extremely patient water mammal friend:

brillaint

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AFK with real life, still checking PMs

Thanks for the comments

@Rastamann: no problem, if you want the colors refs, here they are:
Black parts:
- undercoat black
- base: Vallejo Model Air Dark Blue Grey
- shadow: Vallejo Model Air Black
- 1st highlight: Vallejo Model Air Barley Grey
- final highlight: Vallejo Model Air white
- Glaze: Army Painter Quick Shade Purple Tone (this will darken the dark blue grey and add another tone to the black, quite subtle but very interesting)

Green OSL (full airbrushed until Fourth light):
- First light: P3 Gnarls Green, can also be old GW Dark Angel Green
- Second light: P3 Necrotite Green, can also be old GW Scorpion Green
- Third light: Vallejo Model Air Yellow
- Fourth light: Vallejo Model Air White covered by a glaze of Yellow
- Final light: Vallejo Model Air White
A link to a nice tutorial on green osl: paint-forge

Thanks for quoting me Rastamann, always happy to help other members

NMM on your obelisks is pretty nice, it's just missing the deepest shadows to "pop" the highlights