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Chaplain Leviticus
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Post subject: 1 quick question  Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 12:03 am |
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| Brood Brother |
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Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2007 1:07 am
Posts: 888
Location: Gulf Coast, Texas
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Ink? Huh....? You know me, I just drench everything in wonderwash!
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zap123
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:34 am |
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Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 2:47 am
Posts: 3065
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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If you just want it to run into the recesses you could try adding a small drop of dishwashing detergent to break up the surface tension a little (or MicroSol setting solution).
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Onyx
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 8:57 am |
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| Purestrain |
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:14 am
Posts: 3416
Location: Western Australia
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I usually get a cup of water, then add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to that first. I then use that water to dilute the W.S. stuff, roughly 50/50 (depends on what I'm using it for).
With the washing liquid in the water, it flows just right on almost all painted surfaces.
Have fun with it.
Only way to find out is have a go plm (thats how I learned)!
_________________ Just call me Steve. NetEA Rules Chair NetEA FAQWant to play Iron Warriors in Epic Armageddon? Click HERESome of my Armies.My Hobby site.
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levinas
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 10:29 am |
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Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 8:23 am
Posts: 218
Location: Manchester
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I'd also add in a drop of paint to the mix. It tends to take away the shine and, like the soap, breaks the surface tension to allow it to flow over the model a little better. I'd also say that your mix sounds very thin but I guess it's safer that way.
The other thing that might be a factor is what you're washing the ink over. For example, Tamiya sprays tend to dislike ink whereas GW or Vallejo paints seem to like it.
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plm2212
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:47 pm |
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 8:35 pm
Posts: 653
Location: Houston, TX USA
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Right now I am only using GW and P3 paints. Sorry should have put that in my first post.
Laters
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Pulsar
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 1:55 pm |
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Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 6:17 pm
Posts: 726
Location: London
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if you don't like the way washing up liquid works try a little bit of GW matt varnish (the one in the paint pot) mixed into the ink, it will make the ink a bit more slick so it goes into the receses better,
sometimes i find that inks are a bit shiny for washes so i try to mix up some paint to match the inks colour.
hope that helps!
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Dave
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 3:40 pm |
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| Hybrid |
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 9534
Location: Worcester, MA
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I originally used future floor wax to break up the cohesion of the water I used to thin my paints and inks. However, I would recommend something like Winsor and Newton's Acrylic Flow Improver now after using it for a couple of years.
I thin it 1 part flow improver, 3 parts water, and then use that to thing my paints and inks. Any splotches I see when using this is from using way too much paint.
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scream
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:41 pm |
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 3:18 pm
Posts: 1619
Location: France
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Alcohol is also a good medium to break surface tension. I use some Domestic alcohol ("alcool m?nager" in french) when I use the WS pigments.
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Lextar
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Post subject: 1 quick question Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:04 pm |
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Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2004 6:21 pm
Posts: 1272
Location: UK/Suffolk
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I use standard black and use lots of water. Then I just drench the whole model in it regardless of the base colour. Then i just re-paint with highlights.
If I end up with the mix too watered, it doesnt matter as its mainly water and that evaporates anyway, so i don't have much pigments on the model.
If its not watered down enough, I just start highlighting it again, but at least the recess is darker, probably darker than I hope for though. So I tend to over water just to be safe.
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[ 10 posts ] |
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. Is there a certain formula you guys use when doing ink washes. I normally do 1 part ink to 4 parts water, is there something I am missing. This does not seem to be a problem for the orks, but I have an eldar army I want to start working on and do not want to have these same problems. Is it just simpler to do black lining instead of inking the whole model. I have also purchased some of the Woodland Scenic(sp) pigments that Onyx uses, but have not tried them yet as they seem even thicker than the inks. Any help would be apprecited.