Thanks Apocalypse guy! Is that a 40k scale warlord yr building? Very naughty!

Look what arrived through the pst today:

Much Otterware!

The titan will be finished tonight and so the arrival of said package marks the beggining of my next project.  I think it'll be nice to get away from epic for a bit and i'm really looking forward to painting the tnak sqaudron; that Slagger Tank Hunter looks bad ass and the defilers are amazing!
If anyone wants some defiler heads by the way let me know; i don't intend to be using mine as even in 40k i think they look ridiculous!

I can confidently say that these are some of the best 6mm miniatures i've seen in quite a while; as the project continues i'll give info, close ups's and reviews of each; well done to Otterman and well done to the Epic Community for supporting his endeavours; highly recommended!

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Ryza Pattern Custodian Class Warlord Battle Titan 'Imperial Justice'









Pictures here for posterity's sake.  Work begins on Otterware tommorow evening though mayhaps in a seperate thread seeing as this is the Epic 6MM section...

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I had fun putting together some of the epic components that arrived in my Otterware ™ care package today.  For those that hadn't seen them here are some community produced Centuar Siege Transporters and Necron Tomb Spiders:



They'll both be going in the box for now whilst other things get painted but being the most simple to construct (i.e.just clean off the flas: of which there is little!) i thought i'd share them first.
Quality on both is top notch: i'd like to figure a way to get crew/drivers into to the siegfried.

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Next up are Epic Scale Defilers. THese come with the following components:

Their maker hasn't been happy with the resin autocannon but i think it's fine; i'm told that they'll soon be available in metal.  Other weapon options are heavy flamer or missile launcher.
I personally dislike the idea of heads on defilers (i think the 40k model looks silly like that too!) so will be leaving them off.  If anyone needs any let me know.

After cleaning up flash and such all that was left was a relatively simple assembly. However, the slots on the claw limbs need to be drilled out a little more (use a 2mm drill bit) in order to fit and not fall off.


When it's all done then you should have a model that looks like this:


I used putty to fill the head hole:


One thing to note is that these models are front heavy and will defintely need a base if you don't want them falling forward; not doing so also means that the lovely paint job that you're going to do on the claws will get chipped real soon!

My four defilers will follow the same colour scheme as my LatD deamon engines.

Again; this is one of the best Epic Scale Miniatures i have ever seen and would love to see them in production proper.

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Necron Pylon

Boy did this thing give me some headaches! My superglue burst and i started rushing to get everything put togethe before it all dried out! Before i could start taking any pictures i'd already put the base together:


Using a 'shim' of greenstuff underneath and some additional putty to make the support legs joins more viable.

The "C" come's in two parts with flat edges and so requires pinning:

Additionally to get the correct 45 degree angle to hold (you'll see) another pin (i've started using 2mm plastirod actually...) will be needed on the bottom between the body and curvature:


Then i was really dense! It was time to put the cannon on and all those six vanes but it didn't seem to fit anywhere! HOWEVER; there was a little hole in each vane and so i started pinning stuff and throwing putty in there again, like this:

then i glued them on:

which looked awful so i covered it with greenstuff:

and plasticard with some shims in between at 90 degress to keep the spacing and add structural support:


and i thought: "boy, Oman really didn't think this through did he..." until i found this piece lying in the bottom of the box and felt really very stupid:

See those six little extrusion there: guess what they're for ;-)

After that altercation everything got put together and it looked beautiful!


All in all i'd say this is a nigh on perfect scaled down version of forgeworld's 28mm Scale Pylon.

Not decided on a paint scheme for my necrons yet; will have to wait and see what other community efforts create and/or if Wargames Factory Produce and usable necron proxies.

Night folks!
R>

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Imagine my growing consternation as I read your post...

But everything came out OK in the end.

Custodian came out wonderfully!  Definitely a great army centerpiece.

That pylon model is one sexy bit of 'Cron gear.  Does this foreshadow a Necron-ala-MoK force in development?

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WAAARGH!!
The Lost & the Dipped

Nice to see the Defiler and the Pylon (eventually) going together, and those close up pics of the tomb spiders and centaurs look great. Must resist the foul demon of temptation and...  focus...

Haarken

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hehe! I had you in mind   !


You betcha! I've preordered some Wargames Factory bits and bobs and will be finding ways to procure Monoliths too. However; until then i've still got several armies to finish off as well as odd jobs and to keep costs down will be doing them first!
I've decided that i'm going to use the ORIGINAL necron modles and colour schemes as a guide/inspiration.
Cheers for comments otherwise :-)
R>

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MOK

Top effort.

Just a question regarding the EOA:

Why did you have to pin the flat surfaces - Can't you just glue them together?

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Doh!

Don't worry. I just realised what edge you were talking about...    

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People who are way better than me at photographing 6mm vehicles talk about adjusting light levels in Photoshop. In that way, you can use the flash and adjust it later. The other way would be to bring every light bulb in the house to your minis and take pictures without flash.

I just take a gazillion shots and pick the best one out. Sometimes, that is next to none, but it will have to do anyway.

Anyway, great Crimson Fists. Fantastic details (like on your LatD). You are a really prolific and excellent modeller/painter. Glad to hear that you have so much in the pipeline.

/Fredmans

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Cheers Fredmans :-) That's nice to hear; i'm taking on commisions you know   !

As for photography i can't tell you much; the flash on my camera is way too powerful and so i don't tend to use it. INstead i have a daylight bulb in my room (late night/winter painting) and try to take photo's in natural light where possible.  I've gradually learnt about adjusting white balance but i'm lucky that, though cheap, my camera has an Auto White Balance function that seems to work quite well.
Additionally if there is no pure white in a picture camera's usually auto it as being the nearest closest thing to the camera and so things get washed out; example would be some of those titan shots.
R>

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If a photo is too dark you can adjust it in photoshop (or similar) with the levels command, it's really very simple to do and my recent photos look much better than my old ones! I also do the gazzilion photos method first too  

That said, I have picked up the impression that flash for model photography really is a bad idea and you're better if possible using good natural light or artificial light(s). A tripod is best too, to avoid hand-shake blur.

Some people point multiple lamps at a model (often inside a light box so that the resulting light is diffused and not too strong and harsh from each light source). An easier and cheaper option which I went for was inspired by this model photography article (which also goes over levelling) and I went and bought one of these natural-light strip-light desk lamps from Argos for not that much.

Not entirely true. It is easier to rescue dark photos as there's usually a lot of color info hidden in the dark areas that just don't turn up on screen. Overexposed photos using too much flash for example are trickier: When an area is white, it is white. No color info there.
Depending on what sort of flash and camera you use you can photograph using one. With smaller cameras I find that the best results are achieved by stepping back from the miniature somewhat further than you would had you not been using flash, turn on the macro function and zoom in on the miniature. The best results would be using a tripod but due to the flash you can get away with fairly short exposure times that will keep your pics quite sharp. HEre's two pics for comparison:



Using just natural daylight. Note the slightly blueish tint on the leg.



With flash at a distance. Slight reflection in some areas but not too harsh.

Even better results can be achieved using an extrenal flash unit but you'll usually only be using that with a DSLR camera.

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