Thanks for the reply.

What's the depth of your bases ?? I know you say the holes/indents (for the infantry) are 1mm deep but what's the total thickness/height of a base ??

I am surfing the net trying to find someone willing to: (1) sell a perspex rod, (2) cut it into X mm thick discs & (3) mill the indents.

Just one week of painting? Give us tips!

I love them.

The Acrylic glass is 2mm thick.
The Infantry bases are original size 40 mm x 12 mm.
The Landraider bases are 36 x 32 mm.
For vehicles I measure the bounding box add 2 mm to every dimension and round up to the nearest multiple of 4 mm.

Perspex rods come in standard sizes, if you need anything else your out of luck.

Regards
Stephan

Thanks.

Clean up models.
Keep the painting scheme simple - often looks better anyway.
Work on batches - boring, but saves time.
Prime with desert yellow.
Paint all colors, but metal - still paint the metal surfaces black.
Wash with sepia. Infantry gets two coats.
Drybrush with base color.
Touch up. Full colour surfaces like shoulder pads of devastators get a wash/glaze in their color - so you keep the "shading".
Paint metal surfaces.
Varnish
Glue on clear bases saves some time

Spent 4 hours a day working on the minis.

Regards
Stephan

Wow !! Love the Desert Tan SMs !!! And I like the clear bases !!! Good idea !!! Not to "threadjack", however, I'm proud (??) to say that Old GW Drop Ship on that site Curis posted is one of mine !!!!!

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Legion 4 "Cry Havoc, and let slip the Dogs of War !" ... "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."

Are infantry "sockets" 5mm or 6mm in diameter ??

The plastics: 6mm

After the first week's painting frenzy, you might expect to see the army completed after the further one and a half weeks that passed by.
But no - I've got some miniatures painted

but not as many as in the first week.

Nonetheless I've got an excuse - I worked in hard- and software development, so you would expect me to have an excuse, if nothing else, wouldn't you.

I've made some gaming material.

Namely, damage markers in form of wrenches, shield markers in form of ... eerr ... shields and three kinds of blast markers, objectives, a large template and a triple small template.
If you have more than one barrage template, the additional templates have to touch the first template and the triple template makes sure of this. Two templates are joined fixedly and the third template orbits around the "first" template.

And last not least I made an army case.

It has three drawers for "ordinary" models, and two compartments, one for gaming material and one for the high and mighty models.


The shelves (hope that is the right word) of drawers and compartments are made from metal sheets, which are covered with velours (looks like the surface of a pool table), so the surface is soft and looks classy (when vacuumed), but the magnets of the bases have still something to cling to.

Regards
Stephan

Very flashy, I'm jealous!

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http://hordesofthings.blogspot.co.nz/

I have not much experience playing EA - I have to take any advantage I can get. When my opponent sees the gear, he will be daunted immediately

Sleek! How do you keep the minis from sliding around in the case?

Every base has a magnet, usually hidden under a miniature, and the bottom of the drawers and compartments are metal. Because of the velours "coating" of the metal sheets, the magnets have to be a bit stronger than usual. A magnet with a 3mm diameter and 1mm height is strong enough to hold an infantry stand in place.

Ah! I wondered what the extra hole in the flight stands was for!

Excellent craftsmanship, I wish I had that level of skill.

Cool! Those blast markers are pretty sweet: would you consider doing a bundle for forum members and selling them? I need to replace mine!

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It's clear to me that owning a CNC machine is awesome. Those are some really nice tools and a fantastic case.

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SG

Ghost's Paint Blog, where everything goes that isn't something else.