This process will repeat itself until all of the pieces are connected. Sudden "erruptions" of pieces will also tend to be soft or mushy. For example, this tab part that suddenly appeared at the shown layer.

So, one has to use support structures. FormLabs offers software to automatically orient and place them, but it's unfortunately clunky. I can't blame them, it's a difficult problem.

The software usually over-embeds to model and yet still doesn't address some of the weird topology issues.

So, through trial and error I've learned how to position things a little better. Here's my third take on personally applying the support structures:

One then examines the layers for "blue islands" which would represent lost detail. This looks OK, because that little bit of blue is connected to the support structures, represented as orange.

Don't confuse support structures with a deposition printer's support material. The SLA support structures are the same material as the model.

When the print is finished, and the resin all dried and hardened, the support material is broken off, leaving a pimple.

Thus it's a juggling act to optimize detail fidelity vs. clean up of the pimples.

so in the above example printing one half the model and orientating the support structure to contact on the "inside" of the model and normally hard to see parts of the print, such as the interior portion of the tires in the above example, would be the trick to this then, no?

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You get an A+, sir.

However, having the Shapeways guys do what one wants might be far fetched, unless they start accepting FormLabs' format.

Here's a more-better-er-est orientation on a single part.

Note that the tires/tyres are still showing as red, even though I checked the layers and only a small bit of the inside tread would be lost. Their automatic heat maps sometimes get things wrong.

This technique has a lot of waste, but then again, so do deposition printers in the form of support material.