This is from a previous set of experiments, I'll be posting them in in semi-coherent groups ("you're my beshest pal!" level of coherent) as a cheap and easy way of filling this blog up for a few weeks. To ruin the suspense - this experiment was a failure, and not even a spectacular one. still, testing will continue. --- just tried a couple of experiments with white glue aka PVA glue or wood glue depending on where you're from. this was all very ad-hoc as I'd intended to experiment with normal silicon sealant, except my father in law seems to have borrowed it. Since I'd already decided to try something, I grabbed the white glue. all initial experiments used a mix of pure PVA glue and shredded toilet paper. no added water. experiment 1- Admech skull icon for 40k chimera 1 squashed plasticine into small container. 2 heated up container by microwaving over a small bowl of water - plasticine melts to pure liquid, bubbles removed. 3 allow plasticine to cool back to normal texture 4 squish desired shape into it: in this case was skull, piece of cable tie for grid panel on half of skull, small piece of pipe for bionic eye and small screw for cable down side of jaw. 5 place in freezer for 15min or so - plasticine now totally rigid 6. squeezed mix of toilet paper and PVA glue into mold. placed under slight pressure and set aside to dry. Experiment 2 - random ork head as a test piece 1 - superglued ork head to bottom of container 2 - squashed large amount of toliet-paper and glue mix down into container 3 - embedded handle to theoretically allow mold to be removed from container later Experiment 3 - shotgun weapon for my 40k squats 1 placed layer of the papier mache mix in jam jar lid 2 placed weapon 3 placed second layer of papier mache 4 since didn't look very robust squeezed some glue over the top RESULTS: after 24 hrs drying (in tropical heat) experiment 3 - failure. mold was spongy and springy. toilet paper fibers made it surprisingly difficult to cut open using scalpel. still wet on inside. experiment 2 - failure. pulled on handle. mold ripped in two. still wet at core. also really stupid idea to superglue head in. took some effort to remove. next time fill container with mold liquid and press part in. experiment 1 - initial failure. when removed the weight on top of the mold 80% of pva mix came up, mold still wet inside. similar issue with sponginess. total loss of detail. cleaned gently and poured pure PVA glue in for repeat. still not dry at 24hrs. experiment ongoing. [[i]the pure PVA in this case did actually produce quite an interesting looking skull, pictured below. I've not had much luck with repetition though[/i].[i] The picture shows before serious cleanup, I just primed it quickly for a clearer photograph. one painted and washed it came up pretty well by my lax standards.[/i]] CONCLUSIONS. not to be tried if you're in a hurry. for mold making, will try household silicon sealant next, as soon as I find where it's got to. did not add water to try and minimize shrinkage. this might have resulted in air trapped in the tissue fibres and thus the sponginess. a watery mix of PVA drys very flexible. pure PVA normally dries rigid. the tissue fibre was to try and increase the strength of it. Possibly not a suitable technique for these small scales. will eventually report on results from 2nd attempt. Plasticine is good for 1 or low use moulds. especially good for tricks like my skull, as it saves you having to sculpt a coherent master. Obviously useless for any metal as the mould will just melt. Being able to model with it, freeze it for rigidity or easily melt it down for reuse is a bonus. If anyone can suggest a good casting material that doesn't get hot and better still can tolerate freezing let me know. On the list for trials are epoxy glue, clay, cement and cemititous clay. The only bloody resin I've found so far for sale here is ultra high strength stuff for structural repairs to concrete. It's a tad pricey. There must be other stuff for car body work ect but not found it yet. Assume the budget is minimal.